Summer Shoe Pattern
Summer Shoe Pattern
Materials:
1 ball -190 yards/100 grams of Dishie or other cotton worsted weight yarn (crochet.com Dishie Twist Black used here)
Crochet hook 1.5mm, 2mm and 3.5mm
1 pair of flip-flops (I bought mine at Ardene online in black)
1 measuring tape (to measure holes to poke)
Steps:
Prepare the Sole:
First you will need to cut off the straps of the flip-flop you are only left with the flat sole. If you would like to keep the plugs and glue them in to aid with waterproofing the bottom you can, but I leave them out because I do not want to feel the different textures.
Then you will poke holes in the sole. I do use my 1.5mm crochet hook to pierce the sole from halfway down up to 0.25” in from the edge on the top surface at a diagonal. The first hole should be situated at the 6 o’clock position, the rest of the holes being 0.5” apart. For my size 7.5 flip-flop there are 47 holes, but they should increase or decrease depending on the size (the pattern will work for any size).
Now we will begin to crochet.
Base Round: 2mm crochet hook. Starting at the hole you punched nearest to the left strap hole; with the sole facing away from you, push your hook from the side to the top through the hole you punched, pull up a loop of yarn, yarn over and pull through your loop. Tie the 2 ends together and leave the starting end as we will crochet over it later.
Ch1, sc through hole, repeat until you reach the starting sc, slst to first sc, turn
Heel: work in turning rows
Change to a 3.5mm hook
Row 1: ch1, sc in each st to the equal height on the other side (29 sc for size 7.5) slst1
Row 2: ch1 skip first st, sc across to last st, slst
Row 3-5: repeat row 2, Finish off
Sides and heel: work in turning rows
You will now attach the yarn on the right side halfway between the heel and the toe. So if the flip-flop is 10” long you will start 5” mark.
Row 1: ch1, sc in each st and chain to the heel piece, work 3 sc on the diagonal edge of the heel, sc in each st of the heel, 3 sc on the diagonal down, sc to same point on the other side, turn
Row 2: ch1, sc in each st
Row 3: ch1, 2 sc in first stitch, sc in each to last, 2 sc in last stitch
Row 4: ch1, sc in each st
Row 5-13 :ch1, sc in each st
Row 14: ch1, slst in each st, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing
Toe: work in turning rounds
Attach the yarn in the marked stitch
Row 1: sc 9 in base st
Row 2: ch1, sc in each st and sc in 2 base st
Row 3: ch1, sc in each st, sc in 2 base st
Row 4-5 : repeat row 3
Row 6-15: ch1, sc2tog, sc in each st, sc in 2 base st (for other sizes continue this row until you have covered the round of the toe of the flip-flip)
Row 16: ch1, sc2tog, sc, sc, dc across until there are 3 st left, sc, sc, sc, sc in 2 base st
Row 17: ch1, sc2tog, sc in each st, sc in 2 base st
Row 18: repeat row 17
Row 19: repeat row 16
Row 20-21: repeat row 17
Row 22: repeat row 16
As you begin to overlap with the heel section make sure you are working overtop/outside of the heel section
Row 23-24: repeat row 17
Row 25: repeat row 16
Row 26-27: repeat row 17
Row 28: repeat row 16
Row 29: repeat row 17
Row 30: ch1, slst in each st, slst in 1 base st, finish off leaving tail for sewing
For smaller/larger sizes adjust the numbers of repeats of the pattern (row 16, 17, 17) until you are able to overlap the sides and toe to sew them together. Then do row 30.
Note: If you notice that you are not approaching the heel portion evenly and that the outer side has more stitches remaining, simply sc in 3 base stitches at the end of a row that works onto the outer side; and then on the next row sc3tog and that will even out the number of rows needed with the inner side.
Finishing
Sew side edges along toe edge using basting stitch then weave in ends.
When stitching I like to go along the toe piece edge, then along the other diagonal edge for lots of support and a smooth finish on the inside.